Steelhead
are
for
the
Birds
How
to
modify
Offshore
Side
Planers
for
better
Performance
The
Below
photos
are
thumbnails,
click
on
for
full
size
and
enlarge
the
details.
The birds are a handle that encompasses a variety of in-line surface side planing devices. First ones were called Yellow Birds using a slogan "we fly to the side" and that's exactly what they did. This amazing piece of technology increased the surface spread or distance away from the boat ten fold without the use of cumbersome standard planer boards. The bird stayed on the line after a fish struck and slid down to a barrel swivel with a small plastic bead above it and a 5 foot leader to the fish, thus preventing the board from sliding all the way to the lure and smacking the poor fish in the snout. Soon to follow Yellow Birds success were Tru Track, Willie, Gary Roach (the Walleye Guru) and the ones that I use are called the Off Shore Side Planer. The
above
photos
illustrate
some
of
the
changes
that
I've
made
to
improve
the
Off
Shore
board
for
the
exciting
surface
fishery
that
exists
on
Lake
Michigan
during
April,
May
and
June
or
anytime
there's
38
to
54
degrees
of
water
temperature
on
the
surface.
Even
though
the
planers
have
produced
for
me
in
65
degree
water
as
long
as
the
colder
water
was
just
underneath
the
surface,
but
I
like
the
colder
water
better. In-Line Planers or Regular Planer Boards? Why chose the in-lines over the standard dual planer board? Because the in-lines offers advantages like the surging or jigging action the little boards impart to the lure. Next, they'll run in rougher water the standard board which can flip over and cause you a world of grief when it turns into a deep six and heads for the bottom. When a fish rips into the in-line planer it's a better hook set because you're directly straight lined immediately to the fish, plus the constant drag of the in-line planer the hook will stay in a fish better too, especially on the skyrocketing Steelhead that won't stay in the water. I've used the Yellow Birds, Willie Boards and the Roach Board and they all will work fine, however, I've had my best luck with the Off Shore Side Planer that features tremendous rough water stability. But, they'll need the modifications below to attain pro-caliber results. Modifications (1.) The stationary Mini Release needs to be changed to one that moves on a split ring. This will assist in the hooking and mainly the board won't drag near so hard when you're pulling them in. I've used the large split rings that come with the stock board. The newer version of the board comes with a plastic arm and the older ones used metal with a tab of metal the hold the release outright. Tip: if they're the metal arm, just break off the tiny upright tab of metal and insert the split ring in the exposed hole. (2.) The rear tow point needs to be moved from in the middle of it's side to the lowest point on the rear of the board and in the middle. This can be done with just a pair of pliers but it's better to drill pilot hole. (3.) Trim off 1 inch of lead on the front of the flat bar of lead (the keel). This will allow the board to ride higher in the front and impart more of a skipping or jigging action to the lure. (4.)
Get
rid
of
that
cutsie
flag,
it's
gotta
go!
If
not
you're
asking
for
trouble
when
a
mean
spirited
Steelhead
starts
thrashing
all
over
the
surface. (6.) Use 15 pound test mono for most hits and 20 pound test to insure against break offs. Now
you
have
the
pro-modifications
installed
on
your
board
that
I've
successfully
used
since
1991.
Although,
admittedly
the
board
will
retrieve
harder
than
most,
it's
nearly
impossible
to
flip
over
and
dig
into
a
wave.
When
you've
got
a
fish
on
you
won't
notice
the
hard
pull
in
factor
because
as
a
rule
the
fish
swims
the
board
to
the
boat.
Oh,
I
just
about
forgot
to
mention
the
fact
that
the
board
is
a
free
floating
mechanism,
once
it's
tripped
(won't
subtract
from
the
fishes
fighting
ability),
so
when
a
large
fish
runs
line
off
the
reel
it
just
slides
on
the
line
eventually
sliding
down
to
the
stopper. How
to
Attach
the
Board
to
your
Fishing
Line Attaching the fishing line to the board with the red Off Shore mini release is very important. If done incorrectly the release won't trip and it will just slid down the line grooving the pads in the release. See the above photo for the correct technique. Be sure to click on the thumbnail for full size view. (1.) Let out desired amount of line to the lure. Here's a tip you might find useful, the calmer the water the further the lead. In a light chop, 80 feet is fine, flat calm I'll go back a 100 to a 125 feet. (2,) Spin the mono fishing line to put about 4 or 5 loops in it. This is easy and can be done by just rolling the line with your thumb and index finger. (3.) Insert the line into the release with the loops you've just created facing forward or to the front of the board. (4.) Place line in the tow clip or swivel at the end of the board. This is what keeps the board on your line once a fish strikes. (5.) The loop you've just put in there will lock the board in place, assist in tripping the board and help hook the fish better. (6.) I've used a rigid or in place for photo only, I recommend the split ring modifications mentioned above. (I've used the rigid release setup for towing lead core line only). Lead Lengths and Lure Selections The length of the lead from the planer to the presentation or lure really depends on the condition of the lake. If it's flat calm 120 feet back isn't out of the question and when it's rough with seas running to 4 foot or better I've caught fish on 25 foot leads. If you're looking for the norm I'll generally distance the lure about 80 feet back, this cuts down on tangles also. Lures
that
are
popular
side
planer
selections
for
me
include
the
Mini
Streak,
the
DW-LD
and
the
standard
Stinger.
You'll
see
I've
gravitated
to
the
smaller
profile
lures
for
the
most
part,
because
if
you've
seen
the
micro-sized
bait
in
the
fishes
gullet
like
I
have,
you'll
see
that
a
smaller
presentation
makes
more
sense
in
most
cases. Pro Tips (1.) If the surface is producing well on the planers I'll run 4 on the port side and 4 on the starboard for a total of 8 side planers. I'll run all the same weights and lure styles on one side to assist in reading the boards. (2.) The birds or side planers need to flock in a vee pattern like a flock of geese and you have the right direction. If one side lags and is they're all out of kilter adjust your course. The lagging is generally caused by wind direction, current or not holding a true course. (3.) Any planer not in the flock pattern is either dragging a small fish or has debris on it. Bring it in and check it immediately. (4.) A good hard snap of the rod and I mean hard will trip the board and allow for retrieval, don't be in a hurry here, let the board float over the other lines until it's straight back behind the boat, then pull it in. This will eliminate tangling with other lines in most cases. (5.) I'll start off either the port or starboard side with a half ounce bullet worm weight and one ounce weights on the opposite side, then adjust to which side is producing best. By adding weight you'll speed up the amount of time it takes to set a line and sink the lure closer to the fish. The weight thing also tightens up the action of spoons especially: more action. (6.) I've run the regular sized Silver Streak off the boards with no weight with outstanding success. (7.) On the red Mini Off Shore Release there's a small adjustment that can be made by sliding the little spring, push it closest to the pinch pads with a small screwdriver for the firmest setting. (8.)
Use
line
counter
reels
for
your
bird
rods
for
exact
distance
settings
if
you
budget
allows
for
it,
besides
line
counter
reels
now
are
no
longer
the
high
priced
spread
like
they
once
were. (10.) Don't and I'll repeat don't watch the rod tips for strikes because there'll be constant movement, watch the boards for a hard or violent yank in reverse. Use a loose drag setting on the strike because if it's a large fish it will be screaming the drag. Michigan Sportsman & Capt. John King Copyright©2000
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